Official Luthiers Forum!

Hi
I have the stewmac binding bearing set. I need a smaller bearing for a larger
purfling cut. The stewmac set doesn't have one. Does anybody know if the
bearings for the LMI set will fit on the stewmac bearing cutter?

Thanks
Andy

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Andy Z.
http://www.lazydogguitars.com

Andy,
With a hammer I'm sure you can get it to fit The answer is NO, they are not interchangeable. There are a lot of choices for the LMI bit/bearings, but nothing for the stew mac set. I wish I could get these again, but my supply dried up. You may be able to find one at a local machine shop. You may get lucky.
Tracy

I read the thread, but it didn't say for sure if they were incompatible
Andy

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Andy Z.
http://www.lazydogguitars.com

Andy if you cant find the exact one get as close as possible and add Scotch tape. Each rap of Scotch is about .003" on diamater. I have done this many times

Michael,
I think he is trying to get a smaller bearing, so adding tape would make it bigger. Isn't that right Andy? Andy, I could send you my LMI bit/bearing set to use if you want. When you are done, just send it back.
Tracy

yes
my stew mac bearing set cuts only to 0.2.
I need a smaller bearing
When I use my 3 purflings and 0.063 shell and 0.09 binding, the bearing it
too big, and I have to adapt.

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Andy Z.
http://www.lazydogguitars.com

Go to a bearing supply on line and you will likly find a bearing that will work be sure to measure the bearing sholder on your bit for both length and dia. You want about a .0015"-.002" interferance fit

Check out Motion Industries. They are a bearing house, and can probably supply any bearing ever made.

Al

[QUOTE=tl507362] Michael,
I think he is trying to get a smaller bearing, so adding tape would make it bigger. Isn't that right Andy? Andy, I could send you my LMI bit/bearing set to use if you want. When you are done, just send it back.
Tracy[/QUOTE] Add the tape to the guitar side, not the bearing!

The best possible combination of router bit(s) and bearings is to purchase
the LMI set with all of their bearings. With the LMI set you get a 1" cutter.
Add an additional 1 1/4" cutter that will take the LMI bearings and you have
an incredible diversity of sizes for your rabbets. The 1 1/4" Porter Cable
router bit available at Home Depot will work. I have enclosed a JPG of a
spreadsheet to show you the sizes you can cut. Binding with this setup is
just no longer a problem.2006-06-01_185024_Binding_Bit.jpg">Sylvan38869.7850925926

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Sylvan
http://www.wellsguitars.com

Sorry, I just cannot get it to post. If anyone wants it e-mail me at
sylvan@sylvanwells.com and I will send it directly!

_________________
Sylvan
http://www.wellsguitars.com

For a cut like this, forget the bearings, and just make a finger guide and clamp it to the router base. Test on scraps, and adjust until you get the cut perfect.

Why test and continually adjust for each custom instrument? Why not just
KNOW what you need with a dial micrometer and use it?

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Sylvan
http://www.wellsguitars.com

Why test and continually adjust

If you're directing that at my response...

My answer is for those times when you don't have a bearing on hand, as is the case right now for the thread's author.

But i've also been using a finger guide and small C clamp for so long for my top's purflings that I'm really rather fast with the setup. By the time you've measured and chosen the right bearing then installed it, and done a test cut(you always make a test cut, even if you're sure of your bearings, right?), I'd bet I'm done with the whole routing.

I ahve the SM set for the binding cuts and the back's purflings, used with the Willims-style binding outfit, but I still use a spiral downcut bit and a homemade, wood and C clamp finger guide, in the old reliable PC 310, handheld, for the top's purflings...Mario38870.0045138889

[QUOTE=Mario] For a cut like this, forget the bearings, and just make a finger guide and clamp it to the router base. Test on scraps, and adjust until you get the cut perfect.[/QUOTE]

And I added 1 10-32 screw to my jig that lets me quickly set the "protrusion" of the finger guide. Say if my test cut is 1/64" off, I'll just rotate the screw exactly one half turn one way or the other, press the finger guide against the screw's new position, and the cut should be dead on.

I found that fingerguides are not as accurate as you may think. unless you remain perfecttly sguare to the center of the bit your route will flucuate.
   I have a wide selection of bearings and if I do need that one odd ball I use a heavier on and can shim with copper tape found at most stained glass suppliers. The bearings are best as your cut is the same 360 degrees unlike the finger pilot.
   Still it is better than nothing.
More than one way to do it.

unless you remain perfecttly sguare to the center of the bit your route will flucuate.

Yes, if you make a 'FAT' finger, but if you shape it so that it matches the bit, it can be up to around 20 degrees from straight on either side and still cut true.... But it also help to keep it as straight as you can, and make multiple passes. I've had very good success with the simple things...

Dope alert: Mario, any chance you have a photo of the finger guide you're talking about...being a total newbie, I'm just not familiar with the term.

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Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines.

I lost my hard drive Tuesday and am still loading stuff. Might be a few more days before I get the camera connected...

I can wait, and "thank you" for your willingness to post a pic.

_________________
Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines.

Mr. Statue of Liberty Man! The Greenemeister! DR. Dreadnought!

Let's see pictures of that guitar you got back from Tony today....!

                  

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"I want to know what kind of pickups Vince Gill uses in his Tele, because if I had those, as good of a player as I am, I'm sure I could make it sound like that.
Only badly."